ENENIf you are in Milan even for just one day, here are the places not to miss to get a feel for this exciting metropolis.
Starting from the Navigli, take the legendary tram 3, which takes you directly to Piazza Duomo in 15 minutes. It is a beautiful route that crosses Piazza 24 Maggio, recently renovated together with the Darsena, and, a little further on, the oldest heart of the city, Corso di Porta Ticinese, from where you can admire the two basilicas of Sant'Eustorgio and San Lorenzo, together with the famous columns of the same name.
When you arrive in Piazza Duomo, you are in the heart of the city, the perfect centre of its concentric circle plan.
After admiring the cathedral from the outside, with its impressive forest of statues decorating its snow-white bulk, and after visiting it inside, and savouring the atmosphere in the half-light with the light filtering through the tall stained-glass windows, it is definitely worth taking the 300 steps on foot to the terraces. (Admission 5 euro).
From the roof of the Duomo, in addition to a closer view of the golden Madonnina, surrounded by the pinnacles of the cathedral, you can admire the city from above with a 360-degree view. Milan at a glance, with its churches, palaces and skyscrapers. Looking northwards, you can see the new skyline of the new city, where the skyscrapers of Porta Nuova stand out and, on a clear day, the mountains hugging the horizon.
If you love shopping, you can't miss a detour to La Rinascente, Milan's department store par excellence (named after the poet D'Annunzio in the 1930s). Or take a dip in Corso Vittorio Emanuele where all the big pret-a-porter brands are concentrated.
The cultural alternative is, on the other hand, in the opposite direction, at the Loggia dei mercanti, a charming corner of medieval Milan.
In Piazza Duomo, the coffee or aperitif stop is at the Camparino, the historic and elegant bar at the entrance to the Galleria, which has become the symbol of the Milanese aperitif. And where it is worth entering even if only to admire the beautiful Art Nouveau mosaic decorating its high walls. Specialities of the house are the campari shakerato, the famous Milanese vermouth, and the zucca (lighter) to be accompanied by olives and salatini offered at the counter.
Refreshed, the Milanese tour can resume from the salotto di Milano, as the Milanese affectionately call the 19th-century Galleria Vittorio Emanuele. Here, you can admire the marvellous mosaic floor and the spectacular glass dome under which the crowds of people strolling past fashion shops and cafés parade incessantly. The propitiatory ritual is to crush the bales of the bull on the west side of the gallery.
Further along you can also find the tourist office to get a free map or information.
Across the gallery is Piazza della Scala: to the right is Palazzo Marino, the 16th-century seat of the Milan City Council; to the left is the famous La Scala opera house, the city's cultural jewel.
In the centre of the square, the small garden of lime trees surrounding the statue of Leonardo offers, especially in summer, a corner to sit and rest.
If you are an art lover, you can take advantage of the free entrance to the Gallerie della Scala, with its fine collection of 19th-century paintings (including the large canvases by the Induno brothers on the battles of the Risorgimento) and Canova's wonderful bas-reliefs.
Lunchtime? A stone's throw from Piazza della Scala, you should not miss Luini, the legendary panzerotti bakery. There is always a queue (a testament to the goodness of this street food) but it goes by fast.
A good alternative is the Spontini pizza, the slice baked in a wood-fired oven that is very popular in Milan.
From Piazza della Scala, you can decide to venture into the fashion district between Via Manzoni, Corso Napoleone and Via Della Spiga in a triumph of Italian and foreign designer labels and rich ladies intent on shopping.
Or head for Brera, the artists' quarter, where you will first find the Brera Art Gallery, one of Italy's largest art collections, with masterpieces such as Mantegna's Dead Christ or Hayez's famous Kiss.
A visit takes at least a couple of hours, but if you wish, you can enter the courtyard and admire the statue of Napoleon ‘desnudo’ and the cloisters housing the Academy, the Braindense library and the astronomical observatory. If you are a gardening enthusiast, head straight for the courtyards to find the striking Brera Botanical Garden.
For a break, the recommended stop is at Jamaika, the bar once frequented by bohemian artisans.
From Via Fiori chiari, strolling along this picturesque little street you can reach another destination not to be missed: the 14th-century Castello Sforzesco with its unmistakable tower and crenellated walls overlooking the medieval moats. The courtyards provide access to numerous civic museums and house Michelangelo's famous Pietà Rondanini.
Across the castle is Sempione Park - the most beautiful park in Milan - with its impressive view of the Arch of Peace and Corso Sempione. An oasis of greenery where you can take a little rest.
To return to base, from the castle, go to Cadorna station and from there take the bus to Via Molino delle Armi, where you can catch the 3 on Corso di Porta Ticinese.
The late afternoon is perfect to spend on the Navigli and enjoy the sunset over the canals with a cocktail and some snacks while sitting at one of the many happy hour bars along the canals. Where you can also choose the right restaurant or trattoria for dinner.
Still not tired? It's a long night to stay up late, the destination is definitely le Trottoir with live music every night until 2am.
Claudia Emilitri © All rights reserved
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